Skip to main content

Rachel Roddy’s recipe for tomato risotto

Aside from including one of the best descriptions of eating an orange I’ve read, A Time in Rome by the Irish writer Elizabeth Bowen is an evocative account of a city, its architecture, its atmosphere, its daily rhythms. Bowen finds the perfect words for “the utter blank” in the middle of the Roman day, “announced by the clanging down of black iron shutters, which before owners go off to lunch they stoop to lock”. Almost 60 years have passed since she wrote those lines, yet they still ring true, especially during the white-hot days of summer in Piazza Testaccio, when the ceremonious yanking down of shop shutters really does feel like the city is shutting its eyes for a nap.

Depending on the shop and the heat, shutters and serrande are pulled back up between 4pm and 5.30pm and, gradually, people start returning to the piazza. Kids who have been cooped up in darkened rooms since lunchtime are like springs uncoiling, scooting, kicking balls or each other, while everyone else clusters around the two dozen benches and fixed iron tables that fringe the vast square. From utter blank to a hive of Roman life. Then, at about 6.30pm, when the sun is at a comfortable angle and the summery air cooler at the edges, there are the first sightings of luminous drinks.



Undeterred by the fact they don’t have their own tables, the waiters at the bar run by two Neapolitan brothers have made the piazza their own. You have to go in to order at the counter, pointing in the vague direction of where you are sitting before being told to go back there. A few minutes later you will spot your order – a beer, a chinotto, a Fanta, a prosecco, a spritz luminous with orange Aperol or pink-red Campari, a Negroni, or an americano in a proper glass – balanced on a small round tray, being navigated around bambini and footballs across the piazza to you, soon followed by a small festa of crisps, peanuts, olives the size of small plums and various toasted sandwiches. These days, my piazza drink is an americano: equal parts Campari, Martini rosso and soda, or simply a Martini rosso on ice (lots). Some find this odd, as they consider Martini a mixer. I have not progressed much beyond the sips, taken as a nine-year-old at my gran’s pub, of what felt like the most exotic and racy drink, sweet, spiced and syrupy red, with enough ice to numb my lips.

That Martini rosso is what I grab when I make tomato risotto, too, which – like my favoured piazza tipple – is not as odd as it may sound. It is a quirk taught to me by the same person who taught me his five steps of risotto, which have stuck in my memory like a rhyme. It is a template for endless variations. You add the vegetable, fish or meat depending on how much cooking it can handle. Tomatoes are also acidic, which is where the Martini comes in, lending that nip of sharp sweetness, tempered into dinner happiness by the butter and parmesan.
Risotto al pomodoro – tomato risotto

Prep 15 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4

1 small onion
4 tbsp olive oil
80g butter
Salt and black pepper
400g risotto rice (arborio or carnaroli)
100ml white wine or 50ml martini rosso
500g ripe tomatoes, skinned and chopped
1.5-2 litres water/light vegetable or chicken stock
75g grated parmesan


Peel and finely dice the onion. In a large, deep frying pan or casserole over a medium-low flame, fry the onion in the olive oil, half the butter and a pinch of salt, until soft and translucent. Put the wateror stock in a pan and bring to a simmer at the back of the stove.

Add the rice to the onion and stir until every grain glistens, then add the wine or martini and stir while it evaporates. Add the tomatoes and another pinch of salt and stir.

Now glance at the clock – this will take about 17 minutes. Begin adding the water or stock a ladleful at a time, stirring until it is absorbed before adding another. After about 14 minutes, start tasting: the risotto is ready when the rice is plump, but still al dente, meaning with a slight resistance but not chalky, with the consistency nice and moist, ready to absorb the butter and cheese at the next stage. You may or may not use all the liquid.

Pull the risotto from the heat and leave it to rest for a minute, then beat in the second half of the butter, all the cheese and a few grinds of black pepper. Serve, passing around more cheese for those who want it.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Nigel Slater’s grilled pork belly, spring onions and quick romesco recipe

The recipe Toast 50g of flaked almonds in a dry frying pan until golden. Drain a 350g jar of red peppers then put them in a blender, add the almonds, 1 tbsp of sherry vinegar and 5 tbsp of olive oil. Process until you have a thick, rough and orange-red paste. Check the seasoning (salt, vinegar, pepper) then set aside. Warm a griddle pan. Season, oil then lightly brown 450g of pork belly slices (approximately 15cm in length and 4cm thick) on both sides. While the pork is cooking, toss 200g of slim spring onions in olive oil then put them on the grill turning them regularly. They should blacken here and there. Spoon some of the pepper sauce on to plates, add the grilled onions and the pork steaks. Enough for 2. The trick Brown the pork thoroughly on both sides, then lower the heat under the griddle and continue cooking until the meat is cooked right through, turning from time to time. Depending on the thickness of the pork and the heat of the griddle, it should take about 6 m...

The Ultimate American Comfort: Classic Mac and Cheese Recipe

 When it comes to comfort food, few dishes rival the rich, creamy indulgence of a classic mac and cheese. Whether it's a family dinner, a cozy evening in, or a quick meal after a long day, mac and cheese has a way of making everything feel just a little bit better. This creamy, cheesy dish is a staple of American cuisine and has been passed down through generations. If you're craving the ultimate comfort food that's simple, cheesy, and satisfying, this recipe will hit all the right notes. Begin by bringing a large pot of salted water to a boil and cooking the elbow macaroni according to the package directions until al dente. Once done, drain and set aside. In a separate large saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Once melted, add the flour and whisk continuously to create a smooth roux (a thick paste). Cook the roux for about 1-2 minutes to remove the raw flour taste. Gradually pour in the milk and heavy cream, whisking constantly to prevent lumps from forming. Keep w...

Rachel Roddy’s farro, pumpkin and chestnut soup recipe

Today’s recipe was made from gifts: a packet of vacuum-sealed chestnuts I was given to taste, a bundle of sage from an friend’s garden in Camden brought back to Rome in my rucksack, and a bag of farro from the best wine merchant in Rome, Antonio, who got it from Pacina in Castelnuovo Beradenga in Tuscany, where it grows abundantly. An early form of wheat, and sometimes called emmer wheat (not to be confused with spelt, which is also wheat, but a different genetic variation), farro was a staple grain in early Roman times thanks to its transportability, high protein content, vitamins and slow release of energy. Roman soldiers marched, built and fought on farro, I tell my legionnaire- and gladiator-fixated son, who doesn’t look keen, pushing away the “funny rice”. Looking like a cross between a caraway seed and grape pip when dry, farro does look rather like plump and sturdy brown rice when cooked. It has a mild, nutty taste, and it is this inherent nuttiness that some people dislike ...